PROCESS DEVELOPMENT 

Development of PLC Based Instrument to Measure Steam Consumption for Individual Point/Multi Point Application

Objectives :

-    To measure on line steam flow at individual user points to have a clear data about steam consumption of individual     process as well as each machine.
-    To develop low cost & durable flow meter which can measure steam flow in five different pipe lines with an accuracy     level +3%.

Findings :

After successful industrial trial in a textile industry, the instrument has been installed in a few textile units on commercial basis.

Study of the Internal Structure of Compact Spun Yarn

Objectives :

-    Comperative evaluation of compact spun yarn vis-a-vis conventional ring spun yarn.
-    To study the impact of different process parameters on compact spun yarn.
-    To study the internal structure of compact spun yarn.

Findings :

-    Comparison of Properties of Compact Spun Yarn & Ring Yarn :

i)    Compact yarns have 59% less hairiness.
ii)    Frequency of imperfection in compact yarns is less by 16%.
iii)    The tenacity and elongation at break of compact yarns are higher by 8% and 28% respectively.

-    Impact of Process Variables on Properties of Compact Spun Yarn :

i)    Three variables i.e. spindle speed, twist per inch and traveller weight were selected to assess their impact on     various yarn properties.
ii)    Hairiness decreases with the certain increase of spindles speed & traveller weight and after achieving an optimum     level, hairiness inceases with the increase of spindle speed.

iii)    Traveller weight does not influence the imperfections. However, in order to control imperfections, an appropriate     combination of spindle speed & twist is required.

-    Assessment and Analysis of Fibre Migration and Packing Density of
    Compact Spun Yarn

In order to find out the reason behind superior quality of compact spun yarn over conventional ring spun yarn, arrangement of fibres in both the yarns is assessed in terms of mean fibre position, mean migration intensity, amplitude of fibres and packing density of the yarn. The results from the experiment clearly indicate that compact spun yarn has higher packing density, mean fibre position, mean migration intensity and amplitude. Moreover, assessment of impact of various ring frame process variables on all the above parameters is in progress.

Recycling of High TDS Textile Effluent in Reactive Dyeing

Objectives :

Lab scale studies on -
-    Recycling of high TDS treated effluent from ETP of a cotton process house     in reactive dyeing.
-     Quality evaluation of samples dyed by using treated effluent.
-    Comparison with samples dyed by using soft water
-    De-colorization of used dye bath liquor using a natural adsorbent.
-    Repeated recycling of dye bath liquor after de-colorization.

Findings :

The laboratory scale studies suggested that the treated effluent with high TDS may be recycled for dyeing of cotton fabric with reactive dyes. Advantage may be taken of high salt content of the treated effluent by using less or no salt during the dyeing operation. The treated effluent resulted in slightly higher colour strength K/S value of the dyed fabric than soft water. The colour difference DE value of the dyed sample was well within the acceptable limit when the dyeing was carried out with addition of less amount of salt to treated effluent. The treated effluent from exhausted dye bath could be repeatedly used after its decolorization. The colour strength of the dyed fabric was almost same up to V recycling. The color difference DE was also within the acceptable limit. The dyed sampels also showed fairly good fastness to washing with slight change in color (after IV decolorized effluent) and staining (after III decolorized effluent). The present study has been carried out on lab scale using only three reactive dyes. Optimization of experimental conditions using more reactive dyes is necessary before its implementation in the industry.


Development of a Polymeric Adsorbent for Removal of Reactive Dyes from Textile Effluent
   
Objectives :

-    Development of an adsorbent based on chemical modification of polystyrene.
-     Removal of reactive dyes from textile wastewater using the adsorbent.
-    Studies on the effect of pH, time of equilibration, salt concentration, surfactants and dye concentration on the adsorption capacity.
-    Regeneration of exhausted adsorbent and its reuse.

Findings :

A new adsorbent based on chemical modification of polystyrene was prepared and used for the removal of reactive dyes from textile wastewater. The adsorbent had a very high adsorption capacity for the hydrolyzed reactive dyes and it remained unaffected by the pH of the dye solution. The presence of high concentration of sodium chloride did not affect the dye adsorption behaviour but the surfactant linear alkyl benzene sulfonate affected its adsorption capacity. The dye pick up by the adsorbent was also quite fast. The suppression in adsorption behaviour in presence of anionic surfactant implied the ionic interaction between the dye molecule and the adsorbent matrix. The exhausted adsorbent was regenerated and could be reused up to 6 cycles without any significant loss in its adsorption capacity.

 

        -     Standardization of the effluent from cotton processing in Handloom Sector.
        -    To design and develop low cost energy efficient treatment plant for handling small volume of handloom                      processing effluent with erratic flow.
        - Installation of the model effluent treatment plant in handloom processing unit at Weavers Service Centre, New              Delhi.

Findings :

Handloom processing unit for installation of model ETP was finalized in consultation with Director, Weavers Service Centre, New Delhi. Process study was carried out for cotton yarn processing. The effluent sample from dyeing, scouring and bleaching operations were collected and analyzed in environmental laboratory.

The effluent treatment scheme was finalized and a technical feasibility report was prepared and submitted to Weavers Service Center and Office of the Development Commissioner. Detailed engineering drawing was prepared and submitted to Director, Weavers Service Centre, New Delhi for completion of civil work as it was in their scope of work. Detailed specifications of various components of model ETP were prepared. Fabrication of the plant as per NITRA design and civil work at site was completed. The plant was finally installed and commissioned at Weavers Service Centre, Bharat Nagar, New Delhi. The treated effluent samples were collected after operating the plant and were analysed in Environmental Laboratory. All the effleunt parameters were found within the permissible limits for disposal of textile effluents.

 

 

on colour strength, light fastness and UV protection factor (UPF) is the same when UV absorber is used separately. UPF of dyed fabrics is not affected by exposure to light. Even after ten washings, dyed fabrics and UV absorbers treated fabrics have retained sun protection property. However, treatment of optical brighteners has not retained the sun protection property after washings. Fabric after treatment of UV absorber, retains mechanical properties like tensile strength, tear strength, crease recovery, air permeability and bending length. One paper on development of UV resistant polyester cotton blended fabric was presented. Two M.Sc. students completed training programme in this project.

An industrial plant to the tune of 2500 liter/day has been erected in the National Capital Region, which is working satisfactorily. The plant operates smoothly on the principle of up flow anaerobic sludge blanket reactor after slashing down the rudimentary color intensity through physicochemical technique. This plant brings down COD value from 16000 mg/l to less than 250 mg/l as the anaerobic treatment is supposed to carry out reductive cleavage of reactive dyestuff during the treatment. NITRA has also set up a pilot plant to enlarge the periphery of application while treating the effluent with moderate level of COD/BOD load.

 

To study section wise humidification conditions.
-    Make comparative performance analysis of various makes of humidification system.

Progress of work :

-    The survey & analysis work is complete. The final report preparation is going on and very shortly the final report will be submitted.


 Objectives :

- Identification of indigenous plant species for extraction of natural dyes
- Standardization of extraction procedures according to plant species.
- Purification of the extracted dyes and their application in dyeing of textiles
- Techno-economic evaluation of overall process

 Work Done :

 Raw materials from three plant species namely, Tesu flower, Pomegranate rind and Dolu bark have been used for the extraction, purification and textile application of the natural dyes. Optimization of extraction conditions, identification and purity assessment of the final dyestuff has also been carried out. The application of natural dyes on different substrates (cotton, wool and silk) under different conditions have been studied by using various mordents.
 Eco-friendliness of extracted dyes has been confirmed by analyzing the extracted dyes for the presence of toxic aryl amines, pesticides and heavy metals. A pilot plant model has also been developed for effective extraction of the dyestuff at the most techno-economic level using a counter current step extraction procedure. It shows pretreatment, extraction, membrane separation evaporation and drying, the essential unit operations involved for enhancing purity of dyestuff and its yield.

Objectives :


- Scale up of the technology to pilot plant level and its industrial trial
- Development of a facility for bulk scale production of adsorbent
- Trials on the pilot plant using actual effluents from cotton process house
- Optimization of process parameters
- Investigation on reuse of water and recovered chemicals and dyes in to the process stream

 Work Done

:
 A suitable adsorbent material possessing some desirable ionic characteristics has been developed in the laboratory. The material shows high adsorption capacity for reactive dyes, which are anionic in nature. The role of adsorbent is to remove the unwanted dyestuff from textile effluents preferentially by passing through a column of the adsorbent.
A laboratory scale model for preparation of the adsorbent material has been designed and installed in the environmental laboratory. The pilot plant is working satisfactorily and the experiments on removal of reactive dyes from dyeing effluents are in progress. The parameter of investigation are flow rate, dye concentration, nature of surfactant, pH etc. Literature review has been completed and final project report is under writing stage. The adsorbent column technology is also being implemented in industry for the recovery of surfactants.

Work Done :
 
An explorative search has been accomplished on development of a suitable technology for recovery of water from textile wet processing effluent with subsequent mode of water replenishment for recycling the same in the process house without any adverse effect on the product quality. The scheme starts with segregation of streams, a thorough analysis on process inventory for their biodegradability with a relevant “end-of-pipe” treatment scheme for water reclamation from the dilute waste stream.
 
The scheme has been successfully tested and implemented in a large process house in Ghaziabad where 50 % of water is being recycled. The second industrial project with a stiff challenge of 65 % water recycling in an International textile unit at Panipat is under completion stage. The project report is under writing stage and is going to be submitted shortly. Some of the findings have already been highlighted in 44th JTC held at SITRA, Coimbatore on March 8-9, 2003.
 

    Findings :

 Under this project various yarn samples of natural coloured cotton with different composition and fiber properties were prepared and tested for physico-chemical properties. These yarn samples were used as weft during weaving process while grey cotton yarn was taken as warp. Finally  various products  like kids wear, garments, Toys, caps, Curtains, , non-woven fabric etc were developed  and demonstrated in various  forum to popularize  the application  of natural coloured cotton.

 

 Objectives :                        

 -                Identification and development of a suitable microbial strain for the degradation of                                  textile dyestuff

-                Design and development of a bioreactor

-                Analysis of textile chemicals and their biodegradability

-                Evaluation of  process parameters

-                Techno-economic evaluation of the project and field trials

 Progress of work :

 Bio-degradation of textile effluents for handling erratic effluent flow preferably by using Up-flow Anaerobic Sludge Blanket Reactor (UASB) is an attractive method of treatment because of its superiority in terms of energy, expenditure, recovery and low sludge generation. Special strains of microbes are being investigated and explored for their adaptability in Indian conditions. The anaerobic system has been preferentially chosen for the study as it is cost effective and would generate biogas in return.

An industrial plant to the tune of 2500 liter/day has been erected in the National Capital Region, which is working satisfactorily. The plant operates smoothly on the principle of up flow anaerobic sludge blanket reactor principle after slashing down the rudimentary color intensity through physicochemical technique.  This plant brings down COD value from 16000 mg/l to less than 250 mg/l as the anaerobic treatment is supposed to carry out reductive cleavage of reactive dyestuff during the treatment. NITRA has also set up a pilot plant to enlarge the periphery of application while treating the effluent with moderate level COD/BOD load. Some of the findings have already been published by Dr. A.A. Ansari in “Colourage” in February 2002.

 

Supply and Installation of  Two Model E.T.P. (Sponsored by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India)

 Objectives

-                Design and fabrication of two model effluent treatment plants having the following features-

·        Design capacity  = 1 m3/hour

·        M.O.C              =  mild steel

·        Suitable for intermittent process operations

·        Portable type /size of plant  ~ 3 x 4 m2

·        Very low operation/recurring cost

              -                Supply and installation of model ETP at-

·        M/s.Chenkumar Weavers and Handloom Society, Chennimalai

·        M/s.Sambalpuri Bastralaya Coop. Handloom Society, Bargarh

Progress of work :

 Two model effluent treatment plants have been designed, fabricated and commissioned at the respective sites. The beauty of the effluent treatment plant designed for M/s.Chenkumar Society, Chennimalai is development of on-line mixer eliminating the conventional system for the total de-colorization of textile effluent with simultaneous reduction in COD/BOD load. The residual BOD, COD load has been removed by using submerged Aeration Fixed Film (SAFF) Technology.

The fixed film model would also help for the growth of a consortium of bacteria after necessary acclimatization period for the decomposition of complex molecules and residual dye-stuff if any escaped during the primary treatment.  This needs future assessment of the plant within a year subject to continuous operation of ETP as per operation Manual without any break. Investment cost of plant inclusive of transportation and consultancy charges is Rs.6.0 Lacs only and treatment cost is Rs.3-4  per M3 ( or KL) of effluent. The model ETP at           M/s. Sambalpuri Bastralaya Coop. Handloom Society, Bargarh has been designed on similar principle.

 

Design and Development of a Processor for Recycling  of  Textile Sludge

 Objectives :

Dewatering of sludge in an expedient process by application of filtration technology.

Drying of sludge to reduce the moisture content involving an energy efficient system.

Removal of toxic dyestuff from the sludge.

Extraction of iron and calcium in a suitable medium and their recycling in subsequent treatment loops.

To explore the possibility of   reusing the sludge  in other areas like brick making etc.

Progress of work :

 The primary sludge generated by effluent treatment plant has been treated by dewatering the sludge. This was done by mechanical means like pressure filtration and centrifugal process to overcome the space constraint factor. The semidried sludge cake was dried at 103 0C and finally ignited in a muffle furnace to remove the toxic dyestuff. Thermo-gravimetric studies were carried out to analyze the sludge for its moisture and solid (volatile/ non-volatile) contents. The ignited mass was investigated for its mechanical strength to explore the possibility of its reuse as building construction materials. The ignited mass could also be used for land filling safely because after ignition its mass is reduced drastically and there is no chance of  leaching of toxic substances.

 Recycling of the sludge in subsequent effluent treatment loop could also be tried. Extraction of iron and calcium salts from the ignited mass is done in a suitable chemical medium and the extract is then    recycled to remove color from textile effluents with more than 99% efficiency. Further studies on binding properties of the sludge are in progress to reuse the sludge as brick making material. Some of the findings have already been published by Dr.A.A.Ansari in “Asian Textile Journal”.

 

 Objectives :

-                To establish the phenomenon of Apron slippage in Ring Frame.

-                To study the effect of different factors on the extent of Apron slippage.

-                To study the effect of Apron slippage on quality of different types of yarn.

-                To develop systems to reduce the Apron slippage for better yarn quality.

 Progress of work :

 The project was funded by Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India for duration of 15 Months (from 01.01.02 to 31.05.03).

 The phenomenon of apron to apron slippage exists in every spindles but with different extent.  Due to the absence of positive means of motion transmission from bottom to top apron, the top apron always moves at a slower speed than bottom apron and this speed difference is higher when there is material in between them.   This apron to apron slippage causes uncontrolled movement of fibres in the apron zone, resulting in poor yarn quality.

 The study reports the effect of various roving and drafting parameters like roving hank, roving TM, top arm pressure, spacer size and break draft on apron slippage. It has been observed that both bottom apron and apron-to-apron slippage change with the change in the above parameters. With the change in these parameters, when the apron slippages increase the yarn quality in general deteriorates and vice versa.  So there is necessity to reduce the apron slippage so that the yarn quality can be improved.

 We have developed a new type of apron i.e. “ANTI-SLIP APRON”.   The use of anti-slip apron in place of normal apron shows a total elimination of apron-to-apron slippage due to positive means of motion transmission from bottom to top aprons.  As there is no apron-to-apron slippage in case of anti-slip apron, it can control the movement of floating fibres in a better way.  Thus the use of anti-slip aprons improves the yarn quality.

 Objectives :

 Progress of work :

 

Objectives :

-                Development of eco-friendly method for disposal of primary sludge

-                Investigation of nutrient element present in the sludge.

-                Reuse of the sludge as manure or soil conditioner.

-                Nutritive and non-nutritive effects of heavy metals

-                Method of using sludge as manure

 Findings :

 A study has been carried out on safe alternative for sludge management. Primary sludge generated by physico-chemical treatment unit of effluent treatment plant of a wet textile-processing unit has been investigated for its possible reuse as manure for land application or soil conditioner in agricultural production. The sludge sample has been thoroughly analyzed for  its physico-chemical properties and amount of nutrient elements-major, minor, trace and stimulants present in the sludge, which are required for plant growth.

The heavy metals present in the sludge have also been determined,  considering it’s nutritive as well as non-nutritive/ hazardous effects on plant growth. Finally,  method of using the sludge as manure has been suggested to eliminate it’s hazardous effect on plant growth, if any. 

 Objectives :

 -           Recuperation of highly saline water from concentrated textile wet processing effluent stream

-       Recycling of recovered saline water in dyeing with reactive dyes

-       Impact of high salinity of water on dyeing behavior

 Findings :

The samples were collected after dye bath exhaustion from a cotton/viscose/ polyester dyeing unit. Efforts have been made on recuperation of highly saline water from the concentrated effluent stream and  it’s recycling in dyeing with reactive dyes. This requires an integrated approach to recover only saline water by bringing down the other parameters within the acceptable limits. The impact of high salinity of water on dyeing of cotton yarn with reactive dye was studied in the laboratory using the standard method. The effect of salt concentration on dyeing behavior measured through color strength, K/S value, color coordinates L, a, b and color difference, DE values.

 

It was found that high salinity influences the dyeing behavior favorably. There was no significant effect of salt concentration on the dye up take. K/S value of the dyed yarn increases with an increase in salt concentration. DE values also increase and go beyond the acceptable limit at higher (10000 mg/l) salt concentrations. This problem could be overcome by process parameter optimization. 

 Organisation     :          Student,    Lady    Irwin  College New Delhi  &   Institute of Home Economics,  New Delhi

Findings :

 Under this project it was found that  the some of the towels  manufactured   in the decentralized sector are inferior   in quality  because of cheap  quality  raw material , obsolete machinery and   unskilled technician . Towels  with yarns having  low twist per inch   were more absorbent . After carrying out intensive study on various towels collected from decentralized, way and means were suggested to improve upon the quality of towels.

 Organisation     : Student,    Lady    Irwin  College New Delhi  &   Institute of Home Economics,  New Delhi

 Findings   :  

Under this project a novel method for discharge printing of garments including Denim and made-ups were suggested. Under this method there is no need of Printing machine. Technique is simple and required very less investment.

 Organisation     : Student,    Lady    Irwin  College New Delhi  &   Institute of Home Economics,  New Delhi

Findings  :

 Under this  project  various fluorocarbon – based finishes  were applied  on 100% Cotton  and  Polyester –cotton  blended fabrics.  After the application of finishing chemicals its pesticide   repellency properties was tested to optimize  right recipe and chemical.

 

 Organisation     : Student,    Lady    Irwin  College New Delhi  &   Institute of Home Economics,  New Delhi

 Findings :  Under this project,  work was carried out to reuse spent liquor  Nylon dyeing.   Results were encouraging.

 Organisation     : Student,    Lady    Irwin  College New Delhi  &   Institute of Home Economics,  New Delhi

 Findings : 

 Under this project,    the results  indicate  that  generally  towels  made in decentralized  sectors are not properly scoured and   bleached . Due to this their absorbency is poor. In this study  it is observed that  there are  two ways  to improve   the same - Firstly  by scouring and bleaching  followed by softener treatment and secondly just by  chemical treatment during finishing.  From the study it was found that second way i.e. by chemical treatment during finishing is more economical for decentralized sector.

 Organisation     :          Student,    Lady    Irwin  College New Delhi  &   Institute of Home Economics,  New Delhi

 Findings   : 

 Under this project, various processing  parameters like pH, processing time, temperature etc. were  optimized for wet  processing of   elastane  based cotton knitted fabric in relation  to an acceptable  level of whiteness index..

 

 Objectives :

 -                Comparative evaluation of compact spun yarn vis-à-vis conventional ring spun yarn.

-                To study the impact of different process parameters on compact spun yarn.

-                To study the internal structure of compact spun yarn.

 Progress of Work :

 -          Compact Spun Yarn vis-à-vis Conventional Yarn :

The comparative results of  classic ring spin yarn vis-à-vis compact spun yarn show that compact spun yarn has overall superiority over conventional ring spun yarn.  Compact yarn shows about 59% less hairiness which may be mainly due to integration of edge fibres in the yarn body.  Hairiness after winding also shows that percentage increase in hairiness in case of compact yarn is lesser in comparison to conventional ring yarn.  The imperfection level of compact spun yarn is less by 16% than conventional ring yarn.  The difference can be observed mainly in thick and neps.   The tenacity and elongation at break of compact spun yarn is higher by 8% and 28% respectively that may be because of incorporation of edge fibres into yarn and lesser tendency of fibres moving outward, spinning-in-coefficient or fibre extent of compact yarn may increase.

-          Impact of Process Variables on Properties of Compact Yarn :

The results indicate that an increase in traveler weight and spindle speed invariably decreases the yarn hairiness (hairiness index).  Moreover, higher spindle speed increases air drag as well as yarn tension.  Increase in air drag causes more hairiness but because of compact structure of the yarn its impact gets limited (up to a certain level)  while increase in yarn tension plays an important role which helps in better twist flow closer to the nip and produces less hairy yarn.

 It can be observed from the results that traveler weight does not influence the imperfection.   However, appropriate combination of twist level in the yarn and spindle speed can control imperfections.

 The results show that only twist is influencing the yarn tenacity.  An increase in the twist increases the tenacity and elongation.  It is attributed to the fact that higher twist pushes the fibres towards yarn axis, which may increase the spinning-in-coefficient or fibre extent in the yarn and resulting into higher elongation.

Bio-polishing conditions were optimised, non silicate stabliser process for Hydrogen Peroxide bleaching was standardised. The object of project was to optimise peroxide bleaching process with non-silicate stabilisers and bio-polishing of knitted goods. In first part optimum quantity of peroxide was observed as 2% owf which gives similar results as silicate process in dyeing. Bending length in non-silicate process observed lower than silicate process. The cellulose enzyme treatment minimises surface various and improve smoothness, wetting property and air permeability. The indo-gluconase content of enzyme fraction plays a key role in hydrolysis of cellulose. Two book on knitting processing in Hindi and another in English were published.

This project was completed successfully and report submitted to ministry of power, Govt. of India. In this project main objective was to develop power consumption norms for synthetic yarns. The NITRA has completed the project with development of detail norms on power consumption (specifically in ring frames) for synthetic and compare it with cotton and found that in synthetic the power consumption is higher about 12-15%.

The special features of this project is the neutralisation of alkaline textile effluents using acidic flue gases, emanated from boilers. A specially designed ‘NITRA Neutraliser’ is a low energy unit and possesses unique features. A provisional patent has already been accepted for on the design of this ‘neutraliser’.

This project explored the scope of recovery of auxiliary chemicals, water and energy from textile fibre dyeing effluent by membrane separation process. Cellulosic membranes developed in the laboratory were explored for its application in removal of dyes from polyester fibre dyeing effluent.

Several new recovery and reuse schemes were developed as a part of this project and aimed at reuse of waste chemicals like caustic soda, soda-ash, synthetic detergents, surfactants and dyes etc. through suitable separation and purification steps.

The project aimed at design and development of a new processing machinery for the possible replacement of conventional processing system and carries out washing and processing operations most efficiently reducing the demand for overall water consumption with a scope of recirculation of spent chemicals alongwith a drastic cut in chemical consumption.

The project was planned in view of future needs of human resources for textile industry. The study provides the following findings :

The study covers seventy textile mills, thirty powerlooms and processing units & twenty educational institutions.

The biggest problem being faced by the textile industry during last two decades is the sickness of the textile mills in organised sector. The project was aimed to identify & analyse the contributing factors for such situation. The finding shows that although technological gaps, backwardness, poor quality of raw material, rise in cost of components etc. seems to be the causes but these are only effects and environmental factor appears to be the main reason for such trend.

In spite of a rich heritage in producing the quality goods in ancient past, the Indian textiles have failed to maintain a commanding share in the International market in recent days. In order to overcome the above situation, studies were designed in this project having following findings.

         Considering the needs for making cheaper yarn available to the weavers, the following studies were planned :

        *  Identify and assess the quality needs of yarn of decentralised sector, powerloom and handlooms.
        *  Devising cost conservative methods to manufacture the yarn as per the quality parameters for decentralised              sector, powerlooms & handlooms.

Study covers eight powerloom & handloom centres of Northern region & as well as some industries in organised sector.

This project mainly aimed at eliminating the short comings of the Indian cottons by conducting controlled experiments at the ginning stage including pre-cleaning and post-ginning operations. Various studies & experiments carried out during in this project give the ways :

             It has been observed that Export of cotton yarns & fabrics in the mill sector has been increased many fold mainly due  to the recent policies of the Govt.However,India is lagging in this race due differences in quality as well as lack of  consistancy in quality.he study was aimed to identify those back logs and improve upon the present situation. The findings of theworks  consist of :

Export of yarns, fabrics, garments and other textiles have been increased rapidly during the last few years and as a result it now accounts for about 35% of our total export earnings. Man-made textiles contributes about 30% of the total textile export. With the liberalised policy, signing of GATT agreement and changed scenario, the quality of textiles needs to be improved & consistency in quality requires to be maintained at higher levels to make further boost in exports to advanced countries.

The study aimed for meeting quality requirements for experts reveals (1) the causes of unsatisfactory yarn quality; (2) specific guidelines for raw material selection & manufacturing conditions & precautions for producing yarns of International quality standards.

The project was undertaken to :

* Study the present status of ginning & pressing industry.
* Norms in ginning & pressing industry & gaps in technology in comparison to International scenario.
* Identify grey areas needing technological developments & to suggest ways & means to bridge those gaps.

A detailed report covering all the above areas was submitted to Deptt. of Scientific & Industrial Research, Ministry of Science & Technology, Govt. of India.

This project aimed at identification of various naturally occurring natural dye sources and optimisation of extraction, purification and dyeing conditions. A pilot plant comprising of a dye extraction column has been designed, fabricated and installed at NITRA.

Under this project Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India has assigned us to survey decentralised sector to find out possibilities of inducing information technology in decentralised powerloom sector. This sector is fetching around 70% of the total fabric needed for domestic as well export market.

The objectives of this project are :

Achievements :

Chemical treatment was given to raw water for effective removal of silica and hardness which causes problem in boilers and various textile processes. It has been combined with ion-exchange process followed by degassification and activated carbon treatment to obtain water having zero hardness and less than 10ppm TDS. The water quality has been compared with the standards prescribed for various textile and allied industrial process and treatment scheme has been suggested for each.

Chemical treatment was given to a textile effluent from cotton process house. The effluent was intensively coloured (black) having very high COD and BOD values. A combination of chemicals coagulant & flocculant was used to obtain clear & colourless water. More than 98% COD & BOD removal was achieved to meet the recommended level for disposal of the effluent into a suitable body.

The above project study was carried out on different types of blends & over a wide range of counts at the pilot plant stage & also mills trials were taken. The performance of these modified bobbin holders & their impact on yarn quality was assessed viz-a-viz normal bobbin holders and the finding are as below :

* There is a remarkable improvement in Uster C.V.% & short thin places & long thin faults in case Ne55 & Ne90 cotton yarn with modified bobbin holders.

The project covered 100% cotton, P/C & P/V yarns. Cots of various shore-hardness ranging from 65o to 90o were used. It was observed that hardness of cots plays a vital role in some of the quality parameters like U%, thin & thick places. The project also covered the average life of cots that is prevailing in most of the mills today & it was found that there is a general reduction in life of cots.

The project covered :

* 100% cotton (both ring & open-end) yarns, P/C & P/V yarns.
* Tests were conducted on UTR-1 at two different speeds namely 5 metres/min & speed to obtain 20+3 sec. breaking time.
* Study revealed that for all products, RKM increases & elongation decreases on increasing the speed. The extent of increase & decrease, however, varies with type of products.
* The conservation of cost is the greatest need of the day and this need is going to be aggregated more & more in a globalised economy and absolutely unprotected market environment.
* It is a concept which has to form the culture of each & every organisation which would be constituted of individual’s habit.
* In this concept a core team of key personnel is formed who would in turn identity the main areas of savings, would draw targets. Chalk out action plan monitoring procedures and systems to keep this endeavour going continuously year to year.
* Mixing of soft waste in the cotton leads to deterioration in yarn quality significantly and influence the productivity too.
* If all the soft waste generated is processed separately in blow-room with minimum no. of beating points and card and blend it at Draw-frame stage with virgin mixing, it not only improves the yarn quality but it also prevent the cards to get damaged from metallic parts which may present in the soft waste.

With rapid advancement in technology at preparatory and ring-frame stage we are not fully exploising the advantages of the machines specially the total draft at ring frame which in turn require more preparatory machines or higher cost of production

By optimising the various process parameters at preparatory and at ring-frame stage (such as Roving, T.M., R/F top roller pressure, roller setting, break draft etc.) equivalent quality yarn can be prepared by using coarser rovings

In order to examine the validity of the prevailing concept regarding the number of doublings and the draft distribution between breaker & finisher draw-frame extensive trials were taken and it is found that reduced draft at breaker and the remaining draft at finisher draw-frame the quality of yarn improves significantly.

* Bulkiness and hairiness are the two major quality criteria for acrylic yarn specially for hosiery purpose.
* Bulkiness of yarn can be increased by increasing the higher inter fibre space in the yarn which can be achieved by :
  1. using coarser denier fibre
  2. keeping the shrinkable fibre proportion between 40-45%.
  3. Reducing the yarn twist factor but not below the 2.4.
  4. By optimising the combined effect of stream temperature and duration of steaming. Low temp. with more duration time gives best result without affecting the other yarn proportion.

The project aims at standardization of extraction, clean-up and analytical method for testing trace levels of residual pesticide content on cotton samples. A variety of cotton sample from different regions will be collected and analysed for their residual pesticide content.

A suitable method for analysis of textile samples for presence of toxic arylamines released from banned azo dyes and pentachlorophenol content has been developed using new instrumental technique HPTLC acquired by the laboratory recently.

The conventional physico-chemical and bichemical methods of treatment of waste water does not remove BOD completely. However for recycling of waste water in addition to the other process requirements. Complete BOD removal is also necessary like arc trying to achieve the same by use of chemical oxidising agents. This would not only remove BOD but also odour and improve transparency of the treated water.

A suitable method is being developed for effective removal of toxic heavy metals from textile effluents. Chemical treatment is being combined with ion-exchange/adsorption process. These heavy metals include As, Cd, Co, Cr, Cu, Hg, Ni, Pb & Zn. The emphasis is being given on As, Cr, Hg & Pb which are highly toxic and kill the aquatic life if discharged into surface water.

Sludge samples from effluent treatments of textile industries are being collected and analysed for their physico-chemical properties to device a suitable method other than landfill because the cost of landfill site is high and is expected to further rise in future. Their calorific value and other properties are being investigated to recycle them as fuel, making of brick etc.

In this project the Ministry of Power, Govt. of India has deputed energy management center to develop lead agencies for carrying out energy management studies for the benefit of the industries as well as to nation also. NITRA has been selected as one of the lead agencies. Under this project elaborate classroom training, practical training through national consultants, mobile energy van with lot of sophisticated measuring instruments etc. were provided and now all the lead agencies (including NITRA) have developed well and they are giving useful services time to time. The energy management center, Ministry of Power is reviewing the progress of the lead agencies.

In this project our main objective are as follows:

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